![]() I saw a video where a guy reused the little solenoids for a small DOF setup, and used the exciters also for 4 channel audioĮxciters at the front and backbox speakers at the rear.I will double check the voltage coming out of my adapter cord after plugging it into my friends dryer outlet to make sure that I am getting 240V out of one prong.so when I check his outlet I should 120 between each hot lead and the neutral, and when I plug my cord in I should see 240 volts coming out of my "single" hot lead when linked to my neutral lead. Nice if someone is converting it to PC operation and scrapping the 1up PCBĪnd you can get an LCD controller to run the little DMD screen, so then just add a backglass LCD I can play between 3 different screens, and sadly i dont get any better by going to play on the PC with the best screen.īy the way, if you are still helping people upgrade acrade1up pin cabsĪ 32" LCD with the case removed fits in the cab, it fills nearly the entire top of the cab, from lockbar trim to backglass You will still probably notice nicer picture and image clarity etc of the new screen, it just wont suddenly make you a pinball wizard. Now if one is putting out cash for a brand new screen, sure, try and get the lowest latency you can with in your screen budget.īut if you have something together, and it works and nothing feels wonky to you, yea there is probably a good chance that you may not see anything toĬheer about in a panel that has 2ms input latency, as far as reactions go that is. Old as in back when you could warm a room with an LDC TV, so you know it has input latency.īut i dont have the skills where it matters, i would play no better on a real table where there is 0 input latency in the hardware The question is, are your pinball skills high enough that you can even notice it? You definitely have input lag with a cheap TV Thought for sure I would have to replace it with a monitor. I noticed that with the cheap TV, I had no issues with input lag, and frankly, that shocked me. If anyone wants a flat pack, or pre-built unit that can accept real hardware, Virtuapin is hands down the way to go for the price/quality. I will be picking the unit up very soon from Paul, but I wanted to take a moment to share here what I have shared elsewhere. Throwing money towards a nice Stuzza Ghostbusters wrap! Going to drive up there and grab it to save the freight costs. Got the Ultra-wide backbox, and had the standard lockdown bar from Pinball Life, but Paul is going to swap it out for one that has the fire button on the lockdown bar. Then the CNC guy went out of business! so I ordered a cab from Paul over at VirtuaPin. After a lot of searching, landed on a guy that wanted just $320 for a full cab, CNC cut We then found a local CNC shop that would help us. We had about 4 families come by over the Winter to get info, make cab plans. Instead of doing it, I decided to host a local workshop for anyone interested in VP. ![]() I started looking at a full size cab, because mine as a "home model" had swollen wood, a slightly shorter height, and I just felt limited. And then we hit a Pandemic, and everyone and their mother started asking me to build them a cabinet, or modify a arcade1up for them. ![]() Took the playfield out, and the wife and I crafted a coffee table from it, placed in a oak shell, and are currently getting ready to out clear epoxy over the top. ![]() Took the parts from the broken unit, gave away what I could. Still, I was very proud that I had taken the original idea this far, and it was under $500. I played with various options for DMD, then found a cool little $120 LCD on Amazon to make the DMD.
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